Thursday, April 14, 2011

Block Diagrams

Block diagrams are used to understand (and design) complete circuits by breaking them down into smaller sections or blocks. Each block performs a particular function and the block diagram shows how they are connected together. No attempt is made to show the components used within a block, only the inputs and outputs are shown. This way of looking at circuits is called the systems approach.
Power supply (or battery) connections are usually not shown on block diagrams.



Audio Amplifier System

Block Diagram of an Audio Amplifier System
The power supply (not shown) is connected to the pre-amplifier and power amplifier blocks.
  • Microphone - a transducer which converts sound to voltage.
  • Pre-Amplifier - amplifies the small audio signal (voltage) from the microphone.
  • Tone and Volume Controls - adjust the nature of the audio signal.
    The tone control adjusts the balance of high and low frequencies.
    The volume control adjusts the strength of the signal.
  • Power Amplifier - increases the strength (power) of the audio signal.
  • Loudspeaker - a transducer which converts the audio signal to sound.


Radio Receiver System

Block Diagram of a Radio Receiver System
The power supply (not shown) is connected to the audio amplifier block.
  • Aerial - picks up radio signals from many stations.
  • Tuner - selects the signal from just one radio station.
  • Detector - extracts the audio signal carried by the radio signal.
  • Audio Amplifier - increases the strength (power) of the audio signal.
    This could be broken down into the blocks like the Audio Amplifier System shown above.
  • Loudspeaker - a transducer which converts the audio signal to sound.


Regulated Power Supply System

Block Diagram of a Regulated Power Supply System
  • Transformer - steps down 230V AC mains to low voltage AC.
  • Rectifier - converts AC to DC, but the DC output is varying.
  • Smoothing - smooths the DC from varying greatly to a small ripple.
  • Regulator - eliminates ripple by setting DC output to a fixed voltage.
For futher information please see the Power Supplies page.


Feedback Control System

Block Diagram of a Feedback Control System
The power supply (not shown) is connected to the control circuit block.
  • Sensor - a transducer which converts the state of the controlled quantity to an electrical signal.
  • Selector (control input) - selects the desired state of the output. Usually it is a variable resistor.
  • Control Circuit - compares the desired state (control input) with the actual state (sensor) of the controlled quantity and sends an appropriate signal to the output transducer.
  • Output Transducer - converts the electrical signal to the controlled quantity.
  • Controlled Quantity - usually not an electrical quantity, e.g. motor speed.
  • Feedback Path - usually not electrical, the Sensor detects the state of the controlled quantity.

Soldering Guide

How to Solder

First a few safety precautions:

  • Never touch the element or tip of the soldering iron.
    They are very hot (about 400°C) and will give you a nasty burn.
  • Take great care to avoid touching the mains flex with the tip of the iron.
    The iron should have a heatproof flex for extra protection. An ordinary plastic flex will melt immediately if touched by a hot iron and there is a serious risk of burns and electric shock.
  • Always return the soldering iron to its stand when not in use.
    Never put it down on your workbench, even for a moment!
  • Work in a well-ventilated area.
    The smoke formed as you melt solder is mostly from the flux and quite irritating. Avoid breathing it by keeping you head to the side of, not above, your work.
  • Wash your hands after using solder.
    Solder contains lead which is a poisonous metal.
If you are unlucky (or careless!) enough to burn yourself please read the First Aid section.

Preparing the soldering iron:

  • Place the soldering iron in its stand and plug in.
    The iron will take a few minutes to reach its operating temperature of about 400°C.
  • Dampen the sponge in the stand.
    The best way to do this is to lift it out the stand and hold it under a cold tap for a moment, then squeeze to remove excess water. It should be damp, not dripping wet.
  • Wait a few minutes for the soldering iron to warm up.
    You can check if it is ready by trying to melt a little solder on the tip.
  • Wipe the tip of the iron on the damp sponge.
    This will clean the tip.
  • Melt a little solder on the tip of the iron.
    This is called 'tinning' and it will help the heat to flow from the iron's tip to the joint. It only needs to be done when you plug in the iron, and occasionally while soldering if you need to wipe the tip clean on the sponge.

You are now ready to start soldering:

Good and bad soldered joints
  • Hold the soldering iron like a pen, near the base of the handle.
    Imagine you are going to write your name! Remember to never touch the hot element or tip.
  • Touch the soldering iron onto the joint to be made.
    Make sure it touches both the component lead and the track. Hold the tip there for a few seconds and...
  • Feed a little solder onto the joint.
    It should flow smoothly onto the lead and track to form a volcano shape as shown in the diagram. Apply the solder to the joint, not the iron.
  • Remove the solder, then the iron, while keeping the joint still.
    Allow the joint a few seconds to cool before you move the circuit board.
  • Inspect the joint closely.
    It should look shiny and have a 'volcano' shape. If not, you will need to reheat it and feed in a little more solder. This time ensure that both the lead and track are heated fully before applying solder.
If you are unlucky (or careless!) enough to burn yourself please read the First Aid section.
Crocodile clip, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Crocodile clip


Using a heat sink

Some components, such as transistors, can be damaged by heat when soldering so if you are not an expert it is wise to use a heat sink clipped to the lead between the joint and the component body. You can buy a special tool, but a standard crocodile clip works just as well and is cheaper.

Further information




Soldering Advice for Components

It is very tempting to start soldering components onto the circuit board straight away, but please take time to identify all the parts first. You are much less likely to make a mistake if you do this!
    Components stuck onto paper
  1. Stick all the components onto a sheet of paper using sticky tape.
  2. Identify each component and write its name or value beside it.
  3. Add the code (R1, R2, C1 etc.) if necessary.
    Many projects from books and magazines label the components with codes (R1, R2, C1, D1 etc.) and you should use the project's parts list to find these codes if they are given.
  4. Resistor values can be found using the resistor colour code which is explained on our Resistors page. You can print out and make your own Resistor Colour Code Calculator to help you.
  5. Capacitor values can be difficult to find because there are many types with different labelling systems! The various systems are explained on our Capacitors page.
Some components require special care when soldering. Many must be placed the correct way round and a few are easily damaged by the heat from soldering. Appropriate warnings are given in the table below, together with other advice which may be useful when soldering. For more detail on specific components please see the Components page or click on the component name in the table.
For most projects it is best to put the components onto the board in the order given below:

 

Components


Pictures


Reminders and Warnings


1
IC Holders
(DIL sockets)


IC holder
Connect the correct way round by making sure the notch is at the correct end.
Do NOT put the ICs (chips) in yet.


2
Resistors

resistor
No special precautions are needed with resistors.


3
Small value capacitors
(usually less than 1µF)


small value capacitors
These may be connected either way round.
Take care with polystyrene capacitors because they are easily damaged by heat.


4
Electrolytic capacitors
(1µF and greater)


electrolytic capacitor
Connect the correct way round. They will be marked with a + or - near one lead.


5
Diodes

diodes
Connect the correct way round.
Take care with germanium diodes (e.g. OA91) because they are easily damaged by heat.


6
LEDs

LED
Connect the correct way round.
The diagram may be labelled a or + for anode and k or - for cathode; yes, it really is k, not c, for cathode! The cathode is the short lead and there may be a slight flat on the body of round LEDs.


7
Transistors

transistors
Connect the correct way round.
Transistors have 3 'legs' (leads) so extra care is needed to ensure the connections are correct.
Easily damaged by heat.


8
Wire Links between points on the circuit board.

single core wire
single core wire
Use single core wire, this is one solid wire which is plastic-coated.
If there is no danger of touching other parts you can use tinned copper wire, this has no plastic coating and looks just like solder but it is stiffer.


9
Battery clips, buzzers and other parts with their own wires   Connect the correct way round.
10 Wires to parts off the circuit board, including switches, relays, variable resistors and loudspeakers.

stranded wire
stranded wire
You should use stranded wire which is flexible and plastic-coated.
Do not use single core wire because this will break when it is repeatedly flexed.
11 ICs (chips)

555 timer IC
Connect the correct way round.
Many ICs are static sensitive.
Leave ICs in their antistatic packaging until you need them, then earth your hands by touching a metal water pipe or window frame before touching the ICs.

Carefully insert ICs in their holders: make sure all the pins are lined up with the socket then push down firmly with your thumb.





What is solder?

Reels of solder

Solder is an alloy (mixture) of tin and lead, typically 60% tin and 40% lead. It melts at a temperature of about 200°C. Coating a surface with solder is called 'tinning' because of the tin content of solder. Lead is poisonous and you should always wash your hands after using solder. Solder for electronics use contains tiny cores of flux, like the wires inside a mains flex. The flux is corrosive, like an acid, and it cleans the metal surfaces as the solder melts. This is why you must melt the solder actually on the joint, not on the iron tip. Without flux most joints would fail because metals quickly oxidise and the solder itself will not flow properly onto a dirty, oxidised, metal surface.
The best size of solder for electronics is 22swg (swg = standard wire gauge).



Desoldering

At some stage you will probably need to desolder a joint to remove or re-position a wire or component. There are two ways to remove the solder:
Using a desoldering pump (solder sucker)
1.  With a desoldering pump (solder sucker)
  • Set the pump by pushing the spring-loaded plunger down until it locks.
  • Apply both the pump nozzle and the tip of your soldering iron to the joint.
  • Wait a second or two for the solder to melt.
  • Then press the button on the pump to release the plunger and suck the molten solder into the tool.
  • Repeat if necessary to remove as much solder as possible.
  • The pump will need emptying occasionally by unscrewing the nozzle.


Solder remover wick

2.  With solder remover wick (copper braid)
  • Apply both the end of the wick and the tip of your soldering iron to the joint.
  • As the solder melts most of it will flow onto the wick, away from the joint.
  • Remove the wick first, then the soldering iron.
  • Cut off and discard the end of the wick coated with solder.

After removing most of the solder from the joint(s) you may be able to remove the wire or component lead straight away (allow a few seconds for it to cool). If the joint will not come apart easily apply your soldering iron to melt the remaining traces of solder at the same time as pulling the joint apart, taking care to avoid burning yourself.

Transistors

Function

transistors Transistors amplify current, for example they can be used to amplify the small output current from a logic IC so that it can operate a lamp, relay or other high current device. In many circuits a resistor is used to convert the changing current to a changing voltage, so the transistor is being used to amplify voltage. A transistor may be used as a switch (either fully on with maximum current, or fully off with no current) and as an amplifier (always partly on).
The amount of current amplification is called the current gain, symbol hFE.
For further information please see the Transistor Circuits page.


Types of transistor

NPN and PNP transistor symbols
Transistor circuit symbols
There are two types of standard transistors, NPN and PNP, with different circuit symbols. The letters refer to the layers of semiconductor material used to make the transistor. Most transistors used today are NPN because this is the easiest type to make from silicon. If you are new to electronics it is best to start by learning how to use NPN transistors. The leads are labelled base (B), collector (C) and emitter (E).
These terms refer to the internal operation of a transistor but they are not much help in understanding how a transistor is used, so just treat them as labels!
A Darlington pair is two transistors connected together to give a very high current gain.
In addition to standard (bipolar junction) transistors, there are field-effect transistors which are usually referred to as FETs. They have different circuit symbols and properties and they are not (yet) covered by this page.

Transistor leads
Transistor leads for some common case styles.

Connecting

Transistors have three leads which must be connected the correct way round. Please take care with this because a wrongly connected transistor may be damaged instantly when you switch on. If you are lucky the orientation of the transistor will be clear from the PCB or stripboard layout diagram, otherwise you will need to refer to a supplier's catalogue to identify the leads.
The drawings on the right show the leads for some of the most common case styles.
Please note that transistor lead diagrams show the view from below with the leads towards you. This is the opposite of IC (chip) pin diagrams which show the view from above.
Please see below for a table showing the case styles of some common transistors.


Crocodile clip, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Crocodile clip
Photograph © Rapid Electronics.

Soldering

Transistors can be damaged by heat when soldering so if you are not an expert it is wise to use a heat sink clipped to the lead between the joint and the transistor body. A standard crocodile clip can be used as a heat sink. Do not confuse this temporary heat sink with the permanent heat sink (described below) which may be required for a power transistor to prevent it overheating during operation.


Heat sink
Heat sinkPhotograph © Rapid Electronics

Heat sinks

Waste heat is produced in transistors due to the current flowing through them. Heat sinks are needed for power transistors because they pass large currents. If you find that a transistor is becoming too hot to touch it certainly needs a heat sink! The heat sink helps to dissipate (remove) the heat by transferring it to the surrounding air. For further information please see the Heat sinks page.


Testing a transistor

Transistors can be damaged by heat when soldering or by misuse in a circuit. If you suspect that a transistor may be damaged there are two easy ways to test it:
testing a transistor
Testing an NPN transistor

1. Testing with a multimeter

Use a multimeter or a simple tester (battery, resistor and LED) to check each pair of leads for conduction. Set a digital multimeter to diode test and an analogue multimeter to a low resistance range. Test each pair of leads both ways (six tests in total):
  • The base-emitter (BE) junction should behave like a diode and conduct one way only.
  • The base-collector (BC) junction should behave like a diode and conduct one way only.
  • The collector-emitter (CE) should not conduct either way.
The diagram shows how the junctions behave in an NPN transistor. The diodes are reversed in a PNP transistor but the same test procedure can be used.

testing a transistor
A simple switching circuit
to test an NPN transistor

2. Testing in a simple switching circuit

Connect the transistor into the circuit shown on the right which uses the transistor as a switch. The supply voltage is not critical, anything between 5 and 12V is suitable. This circuit can be quickly built on breadboard for example. Take care to include the 10kohm resistor in the base connection or you will destroy the transistor as you test it! If the transistor is OK the LED should light when the switch is pressed and not light when the switch is released.
To test a PNP transistor use the same circuit but reverse the LED and the supply voltage.
Some multimeters have a 'transistor test' function which provides a known base current and measures the collector current so as to display the transistor's DC current gain hFE.


Transistor codes

There are three main series of transistor codes used in the UK:
  • Codes beginning with B (or A), for example BC108, BC478
    The first letter B is for silicon, A is for germanium (rarely used now). The second letter indicates the type; for example C means low power audio frequency; D means high power audio frequency; F means low power high frequency. The rest of the code identifies the particular transistor. There is no obvious logic to the numbering system. Sometimes a letter is added to the end (eg BC108C) to identify a special version of the main type, for example a higher current gain or a different case style. If a project specifies a higher gain version (BC108C) it must be used, but if the general code is given (BC108) any transistor with that code is suitable.
  • Codes beginning with TIP, for example TIP31A
    TIP refers to the manufacturer: Texas Instruments Power transistor. The letter at the end identifies versions with different voltage ratings.
  • Codes beginning with 2N, for example 2N3053
    The initial '2N' identifies the part as a transistor and the rest of the code identifies the particular transistor. There is no obvious logic to the numbering system.

Choosing a transistor

Most projects will specify a particular transistor, but if necessary you can usually substitute an equivalent transistor from the wide range available. The most important properties to look for are the maximum collector current IC and the current gain hFE. To make selection easier most suppliers group their transistors in categories determined either by their typical use or maximum power rating. To make a final choice you will need to consult the tables of technical data which are normally provided in catalogues. They contain a great deal of useful information but they can be difficult to understand if you are not familiar with the abbreviations used. The table below shows the most important technical data for some popular transistors, tables in catalogues and reference books will usually show additional information but this is unlikely to be useful unless you are experienced. The quantities shown in the table are explained below.

NPN transistors
Code Structure Case
style
IC
max.
VCE
max.
hFE
min.
Ptot
max.
Category
(typical use)
Possible
substitutes
BC107 NPN TO18 100mA 45V 110 300mW Audio, low power BC182 BC547
BC108 NPN TO18 100mA 20V 110 300mW General purpose, low power BC108C BC183 BC548
BC108C NPN TO18 100mA 20V 420 600mW General purpose, low power  
BC109 NPN TO18 200mA 20V 200 300mW Audio (low noise), low power BC184 BC549
BC182 NPN TO92C 100mA 50V 100 350mW General purpose, low power BC107 BC182L
BC182L NPN TO92A 100mA 50V 100 350mW General purpose, low power BC107 BC182
BC547B NPN TO92C 100mA 45V 200 500mW Audio, low power BC107B
BC548B NPN TO92C 100mA 30V 220 500mW General purpose, low power BC108B
BC549B NPN TO92C 100mA 30V 240 625mW Audio (low noise), low power BC109
2N3053 NPN TO39 700mA 40V 50 500mW General purpose, low power BFY51
BFY51 NPN TO39 1A 30V 40 800mW General purpose, medium power BC639
BC639 NPN TO92A 1A 80V 40 800mW General purpose, medium power BFY51
TIP29A NPN TO220 1A 60V 40 30W General purpose, high power  
TIP31A NPN TO220 3A 60V 10 40W General purpose, high power TIP31C TIP41A
TIP31C NPN TO220 3A 100V 10 40W General purpose, high power TIP31A TIP41A
TIP41A NPN TO220 6A 60V 15 65W General purpose, high power  
2N3055 NPN TO3 15A 60V 20 117W General purpose, high power  
Please note: the data in this table was compiled from several sources which are not entirely consistent! Most of the discrepancies are minor, but please consult information from your supplier if you require precise data.
PNP transistors
Code Structure Case
style
IC
max.
VCE
max.
hFE
min.
Ptot
max.
Category
(typical use)
Possible
substitutes
BC177 PNP TO18 100mA 45V 125 300mW Audio, low power BC477
BC178 PNP TO18 200mA 25V 120 600mW General purpose, low power BC478
BC179 PNP TO18 200mA 20V 180 600mW Audio (low noise), low power  
BC477 PNP TO18 150mA 80V 125 360mW Audio, low power BC177
BC478 PNP TO18 150mA 40V 125 360mW General purpose, low power BC178
TIP32A PNP TO220 3A 60V 25 40W General purpose, high power TIP32C
TIP32C PNP TO220 3A 100V 10 40W General purpose, high power TIP32A
Please note: the data in this table was compiled from several sources which are not entirely consistent! Most of the discrepancies are minor, but please consult information from your supplier if you require precise data.


Structure This shows the type of transistor, NPN or PNP. The polarities of the two types are different, so if you are looking for a substitute it must be the same type.
Case style There is a diagram showing the leads for some of the most common case styles in the Connecting section above. This information is also available in suppliers' catalogues.
IC max. Maximum collector current.
VCE max. Maximum voltage across the collector-emitter junction.
You can ignore this rating in low voltage circuits.
hFE This is the current gain (strictly the DC current gain). The guaranteed minimum value is given because the actual value varies from transistor to transistor - even for those of the same type! Note that current gain is just a number so it has no units.
The gain is often quoted at a particular collector current IC which is usually in the middle of the transistor's range, for example '100@20mA' means the gain is at least 100 at 20mA. Sometimes minimum and maximum values are given. Since the gain is roughly constant for various currents but it varies from transistor to transistor this detail is only really of interest to experts.
Why hFE? It is one of a whole series of parameters for transistors, each with their own symbol. There are too many to explain here.
Ptot max. Maximum total power which can be developed in the transistor, note that a heat sink will be required to achieve the maximum rating. This rating is important for transistors operating as amplifiers, the power is roughly IC × VCE. For transistors operating as switches the maximum collector current (IC max.) is more important.
Category This shows the typical use for the transistor, it is a good starting point when looking for a substitute. Catalogues may have separate tables for different categories.
Possible substitutes These are transistors with similar electrical properties which will be suitable substitutes in most circuits. However, they may have a different case style so you will need to take care when placing them on the circuit board.


Darlington pair

Darlington pair This is two transistors connected together so that the amplified current from the first is amplified further by the second transistor. This gives the Darlington pair a very high current gain such as 10000. Darlington pairs are sold as complete packages containing the two transistors. They have three leads (BC and E) which are equivalent to the leads of a standard individual transistor. You can make up your own Darlington pair from two transistors.
For example:
  • For TR1 use BC548B with hFE1 = 220.
  • For TR2 use BC639 with hFE2 = 40.
The overall gain of this pair is hFE1 × hFE2 = 220 × 40 = 8800.
The pair's maximum collector current IC(max) is the same as TR2.

Switches

Selecting a Switch

There are three important features to consider when selecting a switch:
  • Contacts (e.g. single pole, double throw)
  • Ratings (maximum voltage and current)
  • Method of Operation (toggle, slide, key etc.)

Switch Contacts

Several terms are used to describe switch contacts:
  • Pole - number of switch contact sets.
  • Throw - number of conducting positions, single or double.
  • Way - number of conducting positions, three or more.
  • Momentary - switch returns to its normal position when released.
  • Open - off position, contacts not conducting.
  • Closed - on position, contacts conducting, there may be several on positions.
For example: the simplest on-off switch has one set of contacts (single pole) and one switching position which conducts (single throw). The switch mechanism has two positions: open (off) and closed (on), but it is called 'single throw' because only one position conducts.

Switch Contact Ratings

Switch contacts are rated with a maximum voltage and current, and there may be different ratings for AC and DC. The AC values are higher because the current falls to zero many times each second and an arc is less likely to form across the switch contacts. For low voltage electronics projects the voltage rating will not matter, but you may need to check the current rating. The maximum current is less for inductive loads (coils and motors) because they cause more sparking at the contacts when switched off.

Standard Switches

Type of Switch Circuit Symbol Example
ON-OFF
Single Pole, Single Throw = SPST A simple on-off switch. This type can be used to switch the power supply to a circuit.
When used with mains electricity this type of switch must be in the live wire, but it is better to use a DPST switch to isolate both live and neutral.
Photograph © 
SPST on-off switch symbol SPST toggle switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
SPST toggle switch
(ON)-OFF
Push-to-make = SPST Momentary A push-to-make switch returns to its normally open (off) position when you release the button, this is shown by the brackets around ON. This is the standard doorbell switch.
Photograph © 
push-to-make switch symbol Push-to-make switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Push-to-make switch
ON-(OFF)
Push-to-break = SPST Momentary A push-to-break switch returns to its normally closed (on) position when you release the button.
Photograph © 
push-to-break switch symbol Push-to-break switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Push-to-break switch
ON-ON
Single Pole, Double Throw = SPDT This switch can be on in both positions, switching on a separate device in each case. It is often called a changeover switch. For example, a SPDT switch can be used to switch on a red lamp in one position and a green lamp in the other position.
A SPDT toggle switch may be used as a simple on-off switch by connecting to COM and one of the A or B terminals shown in the diagram. A and B are interchangeable so switches are usually not labelled.
ON-OFF-ON
SPDT Centre Off
A special version of the standard SPDT switch. It has a third switching position in the centre which is off. Momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) versions are also available where the switch returns to the central off position when released.
Photographs ©
SPDT switch symbol SPDT toggle switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
SPDT toggle switch SPDT slide switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
SPDT slide switch
(PCB mounting)

SPDT rocker switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
SPDT rocker switch
Dual ON-OFF
Double Pole, Single Throw = DPST A pair of on-off switches which operate together (shown by the dotted line in the circuit symbol).
A DPST switch is often used to switch mains electricity because it can isolate both the live and neutral connections.
Photograph © 
DPST switch symbol DPST rocker switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
DPST rocker switch
Dual ON-ON
Double Pole, Double Throw = DPDT A pair of on-on switches which operate together (shown by the dotted line in the circuit symbol).
A DPDT switch can be wired up as a reversing switch for a motor as shown in the diagram.
ON-OFF-ON
DPDT Centre Off
A special version of the standard SPDT switch. It has a third switching position in the centre which is off. This can be very useful for motor control because you have forward, off and reverse positions. Momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) versions are also available where the switch returns to the central off position when released.
Photograph ©
DPDT switch symbol DPDT slide switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
DPDT slide switch
Reversing switch
Wiring for Reversing Switch
  stock a wide range of switches and they have kindly allowed me to use their photographs on this page. The photographs are from their Image Gallery CD-ROM.

Special Switches

Type of Switch Example
Push-Push Switch (e.g. SPST = ON-OFF) This looks like a momentary action push switch but it is a standard on-off switch: push once to switch on, push again to switch off. This is called a latching action.
Photograph © 
Push-push switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Microswitch (usually SPDT = ON-ON) Microswitches are designed to switch fully open or closed in response to small movements. They are available with levers and rollers attached.
Photograph ©
Microswitch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Keyswitch A key operated switch. The example shown is SPST.
Photograph © 
Keyswitch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Tilt Switch (SPST) Tilt switches contain a conductive liquid and when tilted this bridges the contacts inside, closing the switch. They can be used as a sensor to detect the position of an object. Some tilt switches contain mercury which is poisonous.
Photograph © 
Tilt switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Reed Switch (usually SPST) The contacts of a reed switch are closed by bringing a small magnet near the switch. They are used in security circuits, for example to check that doors are closed. Standard reed switches are SPST (simple on-off) but SPDT (changeover) versions are also available.
Warning: reed switches have a glass body which is easily broken! For advice on handling please see the Electronics in Meccano website.
Photograph © 
Reed switches photograph © Rapid Electronics
DIP Switch (DIP = Dual In-line Parallel) This is a set of miniature SPST on-off switches, the example shown has 8 switches. The package is the same size as a standard DIL (Dual In-Line) integrated circuit.
This type of switch is used to set up circuits, e.g. setting the code of a remote control.
Photograph ©
DIP switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics
Multi-pole Switch The picture shows a 6-pole double throw switch, also known as a 6-pole changeover switch. It can be set to have momentary or latching action. Latching action means it behaves as a push-push switch, push once for the first position, push again for the second position etc.
Photograph © 
Multi-pole switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics

Multi-way rotary switch, photograph © Rapid Electronics Multi-way rotary switch
Multi-way switch symbol
1-pole 4-way switch symbol